Limits of Wave Runup and Corresponding Beach-Profile Change from Large-Scale Laboratory Data

Tiffany M. Roberts, Ping Wang, Nicholas C. Kraus

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

Abstract

The dataset from the SUPERTANK laboratory experiment was analyzed to examine wave runup and the corresponding upper limit of beach-profile change. Thirty SUPERTANK runs were investigated that included both erosional and accretionary wave conditions with random and monochromatic waves. The upper limit of beach change U L was found to approximately equal the vertical excursion of total wave runup, R tw . An exception was runs where beach or dune scarps were produced, which substantially limit the uprush of swash motion to produce a much reduced total runup. Based on the SUPERTANK dataset, the vertical extent of wave runup above mean water level on a beach without scarp formation was found to approximately equal the significant breaking wave height, H bs . Therefore, a new and simple relation R tw = H bs is proposed. The linear relationship between total runup and breaking wave height is supported by a conceptual derivation. In addition, the relation is extended to U L = R tw = H bs to approximate the upper limit of beach change. This formula accurately reproduced the measured upper limit of beach change from the three-dimensional experiments in the Corps' large-scale sediment transport facility. For the studied laboratory cases, predictions of wave runup were not improved by including a slope-dependent surf-similarity parameter. The limit of wave runup was substantially less for monochromatic waves than for random waves, attributed to absence of low-frequency motion.

Original languageAmerican English
JournalJournal of Coastal Research
Volume26
DOIs
StatePublished - Jan 1 2010

Keywords

  • beach erosion
  • nearshore sediment transport
  • wave breaking
  • cross-shore sediment transport
  • physical modeling
  • surf zone processes

Disciplines

  • Earth Sciences
  • Geology
  • Physical Sciences and Mathematics

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